Tracing its roots to Malacca's two-decade-old Aunty Lee restaurant in Ujong Pasir, Baba Ho Liao does justice to the Nyonya cookbook with flavours that taste time-honoured and traditional.
It's always a pleasure to find an eatery that serves Ayam Buah Keluak - Baba Ho Liao's is richly, robustly satisfying, with tender, chunky chicken in the tamarind-tinged curry-gravy that's distinctive of the Indonesian-sourced black nuts. Our only quibble is that the Small serving (RM36) comprises only three nuts, though thankfully, each is large and filled with plenty of earthy, soft fermented flesh (Baba Ho Liao uses a high proportion of 85% kernel in each nut, blended with chicken and shrimp).
Count us in for a venue that also offer Itik Tim - the savoury-sour duck soup is a comforting balance between intense and mellow, with pickled mustard greens tempered with poultry meatiness (RM24). Cincalok and sambal belacan (RM5.50 each) should meet the approval of Peranakan patriarchs and matriarchs, with enough punch to placate an entire household.
129, Jalan Aminuddin Baki, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur. Daily, 1130am-3pm, 6pm-10pm.
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