Lyle's

Modern seasonal British flair

Brill, swiss chard, gooseberry

I have been to Lyle's when it was very launched back in 2015. I got to say, the experience was rather underwhelming, while the food was pretty decent, it was really nothing special. I was really puzzling while it gained so much positive media attention, as well as landing a Michelin star and entered into the World's 50 Best restaurant list, ahead of venues such as The Ledbury and Midsummer House. 4 years later to 2019, I have returned for a lunch occasion, and wonder how much it has changed. Surely, with all of the high praises from both consumers and trade professionals, they are doing something right.

Jersey rock oyster and sorrel and apple

Grilled Palourde clams and sea purslane

White asparagus and prawn broth

Lyle's serves small plates dishes in its lunch setting and we were suggested to have about 3 dishes per person like you would at a tapas restaurant. There was a lamb and mint dish, a Britsh classic, but Lyle's version was on another level. The lamb ribs were grilled masterfully with a sweet and umami glaze that load with so many meaty flavours. The mint sauce was fresh with a well balanced sweet and sour taste and worked like a treat with the lamb. Smoked eel and mushroom was an unusual combination, the oiliness, and saltiness of the eel acted almost like a seasoning to the meaty texture of the mushroom, it was enjoyable but from anything really special. The highlight was the brill, very moist and finely seasoned, the sourness of gooseberry somehow enhanced the taste of the fish remarkably. It was a simple looking plate of food but well executed in both concept and taste.

Green asparagus, pheasant eggs and cured mangalitza

Smoked eel and mushroom

Lamb ribs with mint

My second visit to Lyle's was a massive improvement across all department. It had a more relaxing feels to it and the staff was more engaging and knowledgeable. The food itself was also nothing like I have experienced back in 2015, far more refined. Is it a Michelin star-worthy restaurant, I would say so based on all of the other winners across London. However, it was still far from anywhere near the 50 best in the world. Totally aware taste is such a subjective matter, but surely, there are so many outstanding restaurants in the world are just ahead, in term of concepts, execution, and use of ingredients. Treat Lyle's like a great venue for good quality, seasonal, modern British food, just don't expect it to be at a world-class level.


Food 4/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
Lunch menu: £25 - £30
Dinner menu: £39

Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JJ

http://www.lyleslondon.com/

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