Ranked seventh this year among Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, MUME might be burdened with expectations it can't completely meet. It nonetheless merits a visit for its parade of thoughtfully conceived creations, particularly a wagyu tartare that's revelatory, conveying a deep purity of flavour and lively freshness of texture. Everything else is enjoyable enough, though from the tartlets to the colourful crudo, the milkfish with abalone to the ox tongue, this meal in Taipei works best to illustrate how chefs dedicated to their craft strive to keep exploring new horizons and pushing their boundaries.
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