Rasadesa, Bukit Damansara

Showcasing cherished kampung classics that crisscross peninsular Malaysia, Rasadesa's cooking is fit for kings and kenduris, from Negeri Sembilan's itik salai masak lemak cili api (RM28; meaty smoked duck in spicy-milky gravy, aromatically simmered with turmeric and daun asam gelugur) to Kelantan's kerutup udang galah (RM30; a giant fleshy freshwater prawn, saturated in a richly sweet-savoury concentrated curry).

The food conveys a robust sense of time-honoured tradition, living up to what the restaurant's name evokes. Other offerings span Malacca's asam pedas ikan pari, Pahang's patin masak tempoyak with timun tua, and Terengganu's nasi dagang with gulai ikan tongkol.

Don't skip the kitchen-made sambals (RM3 each) - the unmistakably pungent sambal belacan, the creamy-like-mayo sambal tempoyak with a potently fermented durian kick, and the sambal budu cili padi with a fieriness that lingers on the palate.

Service is warm and efficient at this bright, cheerful restaurant.

Rasadesa
No 47, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, Damansara Heights, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
Open Mon-Wed, 11am-5pm; Thur-Sat, 11am-3pm, 630-10pm. Tel: 012-260-6433

This post first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

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