Seeking to bring the feel and the flavours of Jonker Street to the Klang Valley, this new restaurant's Nyonya founder Lily Tan and her team offer plenty of Malaccan-inspired crowd-pleasers. It's one of the few places in KL and Selangor where you'll find both chicken and pork versions of pongteh on the menu, reasonable-tasting enough if you need to fix that fierce hankering for pongteh. The smallest serving costs RM18, with each claypot generously loaded with chunky meat, potatoes and mushrooms - our preference is for the hong bak braised pork interpretation, fleshy and fatty.
The kitchen also dishes out Malacca's well-known novelty of chicken rice balls (RM28 for half a bird with five big rice balls). It's a solid portion, though the rice could be fine-tuned for more satisfying fragrance and richness.
Speaking of novelties, the D24 Chicken might not be traditionally Nyonya, but it could potentially fit into a contemporary Peranakan cookbook, with each slice of crispy chicken coated in a thick, mellow durian paste (RM50). Have it perhaps with some starch - the herb-spiked Nyonya fried rice with prawns hits the spot for a lunchtime indulgence (RM12).
Grand Nyonya Restaurant
5-1, Jalan Equine 10c, Taman Equine, Seri Kembangan, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 12pm-3pm, 6pm-1030pm. Tel: 017-777-7134
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