Pudu's Chan Fatt Wanton Mee is back this month after a 21-year hiatus: The name harks back to a stall in Pudu Market helmed by the late Wong Poon, an immigrant from Canton, from 1955 to 1996. Wong & his wife fed tens of thousands of patrons over four decades with their noodles, painstakingly kneaded & rolled with a bamboo pole. Wong's daughter, Megan, still recalls how she & her siblings began helping their parents prepare dumplings for the noodles from the age of seven; now 56 & freshly retired from a career in finance, Megan is reviving her father's legacy on her mother's wishes, bringing her family's heritage-fuelled recipes to a new generation of customers, many of whom were not alive while her father was in business.
Firm, fresh & springy egg noodles can be served soupy or dry with various combinations, including char siew & sui kow (RM8.50), char siew & prawn wontons (RM8.50) or lion's head meatballs (RM8.50). Flavours prove pleasurably clean & clear, mild & mellow, in a nod to good old-fashioned nostalgia, back when folks had simpler tastes, evoking 1987 a bit more than 2017. Tradition is big here; the pork & liver sausages for the dark soy sauce rice bowl with fried egg are homemade by an independent village-based supplier, conveying a deep, aromatic sweetness (RM10.90). Prices are fair & portions are filling.
Pudu Chan Fatt Wanton Mee
52G, Jalan SS 21/58, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Open Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm; Sat-Sun, 9am-5pm. Tel: 012-383-8903
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